Agriculture

Cotton's farm-level production standard has been strengthened with a sharper regenerative agriculture focus, following BCI's release of Principles and Criteria v.3.2. The updated standard introduces targeted improvements to selected indicators, enhances auditability across diverse growing contexts, and advances BCI's broader ambition to operate as a fully regenerative standards system.

The bio-based textile economy is entering a decisive phase as technological innovation reshapes how natural fibres are harvested and processed. At the centre of this transformation is Niels Baert, Founder of Hyler, a Belgian company pioneering hybrid agricultural machinery for fibre crops. His insights reveal both the industry’s persistent challenges and the opportunities driving sustainable fibre production forward.

Europe’s hemp story has shifted from policy to performance. Farmers can now grow and process fibre, yet consistent buyers remain scarce. Between luxury weavers, mass-market converters and new industrial users, the market is searching for direction. Its future will depend on whether certification and diversification can turn enthusiasm into genuine, recurring demand.

Europe’s hemp boom has filled fields but left factories waiting. The region now grows tens of thousands of hectares of fibre crops, yet only a handful of facilities can refine them for textiles. Hemp’s challenge is no longer agronomy but engineering — how to build the machinery, skills, and scale that make a crop an industry.

Across Western Europe, fields of hemp are re-appearing beside the region’s long-trusted flax, but technical familiarity has yet to catch up with acreage. Farmers possess the land, machinery, and ambition—yet remain unsure how to turn stalks into stable income. For now, cultivation outpaces coordination, leaving Europe’s textile revival rooted more in hope than experience.

A key organisation playing a vital role in the hemp movement is Inagro, which provides research and advice in agriculture. Crop Researcher Sophie Waegebaert about the organisation's work with farmers, and the challenges facing hemp as an alternative textile fibre.

The future of cotton in fashion is at a crossroads, threatened by weak transparency, limited certification impact, and the growing dominance of synthetics. In this interview, Tamar Hoek, Senior Policy Director (Sustainable Fashion), and Annemiek Smits, Corporate Engagement Manager for Fashion at Solidaridad, share why brands must prioritise fairer procurement, stronger accountability, and investment in farmers.

Hemp is emerging as a serious contender in Europe’s sustainable fibre narrative, yet its path to scale remains riddled with questions. Nathalie Revol, hemp project manager at Association Lin et Chanvre Bio, shares insights on land expansion, regulatory hurdles, and the realities of building market-ready textile fibres that can rival synthetics and achieve lasting credibility.

For over two decades, nonprofit Valbiom has worked to advance the bioeconomy in Wallonia and beyond, building bridges between farmers, researchers, industry, and policymakers. Despite proven expertise and pilot successes such as hemp textiles, scaling up remains constrained by political will and investment. In a conversation with texfash, Valentine Donck, Project Manager for Bio-based Textiles, explores challenges, opportunities, and strategies shaping Europe’s sustainable industrial future.

CottonConnect is transforming global cotton supply chains through regenerative farming, full traceability, and collaborative brand partnerships. Led by CEO Alison Ward, the social enterprise empowers farmers, promotes sustainability, and builds climate resilience across India, Pakistan, China and beyond. With scalable programmes and robust impact measurement, CottonConnect aims to make sustainable cotton the norm, not the exception, in a volatile global market.