Specials

A first-of-its-kind product-level study of post-consumer footwear waste in Europe has found that nearly a quarter of shoes classified as non-rewearable carry no visible physical damage, and that 37% of sole materials cannot be identified by the automated sorting technology the sector relies on. The findings point to design and infrastructure failures rather than recycling capacity as the primary constraint on circularity. The research was conducted by Circle Economy and Fashion for Good.

Cotton is the raw material on which India's textile and apparel export ambitions rest, and for the second time in a year the government has moved to lower its cost for processors by removing import duties. The measure runs until late October this year. What it does not do is resolve the underlying tension between farm-income protection and industrial competitiveness that has made the duty a recurring site of policy conflict.

The EU's mandatory separate textile collection requirement came into force in 2025, backed by recyclability targets for 2030. What the policy framework has not accounted for is that the larger share of fibre loss in a cotton garment occurs before any consumer touches it. A new study traces a single t-shirt across its full global supply chain to quantify where that loss actually goes.

Across Latin America, cotton sectors are navigating a modernisation wave that is producing sharply unequal results. The technologies exist; so does the research capacity. What remains fragile is the institutional scaffolding that translates both into farm-level change. Dr Marcelo Paytas, Director at INTA – Instituto Nacional de Tecnología Agropecuaria, has spent years working at that fault line, and his diagnosis is precise.

A proposed $2 billion carbon-neutral textile city in Egypt's Suez Canal Economic Zone is the largest single expression of a structural shift that has been accumulating since at least 2019. Chinese manufacturers under mounting pressure to demonstrate lower-carbon supply chains have been moving into Egyptian industrial zones in accelerating volume. The announcement makes that movement legible for the first time at scale.

For decades, scientists knew that upland cotton, the species behind around 90% of the world's natural textile fibre, was domesticated somewhere in the Americas, but could not say exactly where. A new genomic study has now provided the answer, tracing the crop's origins to the coastal scrublands of northwestern Yucatán, where farmers worked thousands of years before the Maya.

A new lifecycle assessment released today by Cotton Incorporated reframes how the fibre's environmental performance is measured and contested. The study produces a net-negative carbon footprint at the farm gate while leaving open significant questions about the methodological assumptions and farming system consistency that underpin that finding, with implications that extend well beyond the fibre itself.

Ten years is a long horizon in any industry, but in AI it may be a category error. Fashion for Good's mapping of a 2036 AI-native supply chain is technically grounded and operationally serious. The structural questions it leaves unanswered, around rebound effects, labour transition, legal accountability, and regulatory reach, are the ones that will determine whether the vision it describes produces genuine progress or faster versions of the same systemic failures.

Latin American cotton operates across a wide spectrum, yet rarely as a coherent regional bloc. Argentina exemplifies this tension: a significant cotton producer whose structural fragmentation mirrors the wider regional condition. José Luis Spontón, researcher at INTA's Reconquista Experimental Research Station (EEA Reconquista), examines what is holding the sector back and what associative models from Brazil and Paraguay suggest about the path forward.

The pressures reshaping cotton cultivation across Latin America are real, but they do not fall evenly. Scale, technology access and market proximity determine which producers absorb disruption and which do not. Nelson Dias Suassuna, senior researcher at Embrapa, draws a clear line between the sector's two operating realities and the distinct futures each one faces.